May 2005
Diana's Graduation Dress
Here's the muslin... not bad, but there are a few tweaks to be made.
Front view:
The overall fit is pretty good, but I'm going to increase the ease just a bit to prevent some of the "pulling". Also, the darts need to be lengthened, and I'm not quite sure why there is so much wrinkling in the sleeve.
Also, I need to raise the neck and shorten the collar.
(And no, I didn't iron it at all.)
The back fits very nicely. Again, increasing the waist ease just a bit will likely solve the pulling problem.
Here's a closer view of the front. I think when I have fixed the darts and ease and it is done in the heavier brocade, it will look wonderful.
June 4
Muslin #2
I'm not sure I did much to improve it... the sleeves are terrible but the neckline is better.
I didn't sew the side waist darts in front or back, and I think I will need to. The waist is a bit too undefined.
The back fits pretty well. Again, I will sew the second waist dart to add some shaping.
Here is where I think the dress looks terrible. Diana says the sleeves are uncomfortable. The shoulder point pulls forward, there is too much ease in the sleeve cap, and there is that diagonal fold.
Also, I changed the collar so the center front is on the fold. It lies much better. I had to raise the front neck to -0.5 and the back to 0. It sits snugly but not tightly.
Suggestions for improvements welcomed; I am getting frustrated by this and the dress needs to be finished by Thursday.
Update: June 5
Success!!!
Third time is the charm. The latest muslin is right on. I lengthened a few of the measurements and it fits great. Maybe she DID grow since I took her measurements last month!
All the darts are sewn, which also greatly helps the fit. I also used a drapery fabric, to more closely mimic the characteristics of the final brocade.
Now my biggest concern is that it's going to be so hot at her graduation ceremony that she will roast.
The back fits perfectly. Sewing all the darts really did make a difference.
The sleeve sits just where it is supposed to. I'm very glad I stuck with it; now Diana will have a lovely graduation dress.
I hope to have the final version sewn and posted by Tuesday.
June 9
The Big Night!
Diana got a LOT of compliments on her dress!!
The fit was just about perfect.
If I had to pick one thing I am proudest of on this dress, it is the pattern matching along the center back seam. The whole seam just about disappears.
A construction note: I had originally intended to line the dress, but decided against it at the last minute, mostly because the forecast was for incredibly hot and humid conditions. I was worried she would sweat buckets, since the lining I had gotten to go perfectly with this brocade was a polyester. The brocade was substantial enough on its own that I ended up not even using interfacing in the collar.
Diana insisted on having the right side slit to just above her knee.
Diana really loved her dress, and she looked so beautiful in it. I was so glad to be able to make her graduation dream come true.
Update!
Diana's graduation dress was awarded a BLUE RIBBON (first place) in the "Adult Long Formal" category at the Montgomery County (MD) Fair, and was also awarded the CHAMPION ROSETTE in the Adult Dressy Outfit section!